In an understated Parnell dining room, a revolution is taking place. Samoan food, loved by Pasifika, is being transformed by chef Henry Onesemo into a sophisticated palette of flavours and textures. Henry, who was born in Samoa and trained there as a chef, enjoyed stints in Hawaii and Thailand before landing a spot at Meredith’s in Auckland. He opened Tala with his wife Debby in 2023 and three forms of set menu are available. Henry incorporates what he finds in the markets into each course, served with a gentle discourse as he shares his knowledge of techniques and provenance. Every dish is spectacular – from the raw ramen evoking childhood memories eating crisp noodles from plastic packets to the moreish croquettes of palusami, a phenomenal lamb sapusui, and smoky chicken and taro given a complete makeover. In between, Henry encourages diners to look deeper, consider more carefully. By the time the meal is over, the conversion is complete. Check website for opening hours MAINS: Chef’s Journey dégustation $215 per person, Fāgogo Journey dégustation $165 per person