This long, elegant room with its concrete walls and velvet booths feels sophisticated and yet instantly welcoming. Passionate hospitality professionals Shannon Vandy and Fraser McCarthy have created an inner-city winner with a menu that changes with the seasons. Shannon ensures the service is a perfect mix of information and timing while chef Fraser presents a menu that he describes as an ever-evolving journey. Although à la carte is available, it pays to make this an occasion and splash out on a set-course dégustation. Our visit featured innovative chef’s snacks followed by an umami-laced seaweed custard. Next up fresh scallops with shards of tart apple and an unexpected zing from frozen wasabi powder which gave way to silken dumplings topped with grated cured egg. The fish course is cooked over coals and served with a bittersweet, earthy pumpkin purée before venison arrives with the same kiss of smoke and a clever pairing with savoury oats, bitter sorrel leaves and crispy enoki mushrooms. Passionfruit mango soufflé and white chocolate ice cream is the perfect finale to this refined culinary adventure. Check website for opening hours MAINS: $32-$39 or 8-course dégustation $195 per person