Palate

A shiny new location at the entrance to SkyCity Hamilton comes with a fresh approach by chef Mat McLean who has turned up the heat by giving a wood-fired asado the star billing in a menu where the focus remains local and sustainable but pared back to allow ingredients to speak for themselves. Burnished-gold booth seating and wingback chairs counterpoint the more traditional tables in the restaurant making for a casual, relaxed mood. Host Larissa Muller does not miss a beat and her wine knowledge is outstanding. What to pair is easier than whether to share with dishes such as artichoke panna cotta, a textural triumph, all crunch and unctuousness with twice-cooked artichoke pieces, confit egg yolk and wafer-thin croutons. Venison-tongue skewers are seared over flame and topped with chimichurri and cipollini onions while the duck tagliatelle marries pieces of smoky, crispy-skinned duck with mushrooms, slivers of endive, walnut pesto, tonka bean and walnut. Indulge, do, in dessert, like we did: roasted sweet/tart rhubarb atop a warm pudding with a jammy rhubarb centre. Check website for opening hours Mains: $30-$60