To describe this eatery as an oldie but a goodie is to rightly recognise that for more than 20 years this doyen of the Cuba Street strip has been the go-to diner for the capital’s cuisine cognoscenti. The service is maturely reliable and the drinks list more food companion than competitor. Chef Hayden McMillan knows how to please while not being afraid to deliver a few taste teasers along the way. His prawn tortellini with basil tomato and a prawn-head bisque is outrageously good while the snapper with mussel escabeche and brown-butter cream blew us out of the water. Keeping us on our toes was the pumpkin risotto married with Mt Eliza Blue Monkey and radicchio, and a highly memorable wapiti venison and lamb ragu was offset by the playful use of reggiano. Still one of Wellington’s best dining experiences: casual yet careful, edgy and excellent. Check website for opening hours MAINS: $33-$48