For 20 years Michael Dearth has promoted his very special brand of hospitality here, carefully nursing the restaurant through chef changes, road closures and challenging economic times, always acutely sensitive to the diner’s interpretation of what he offers. His passion for his trade, his broad knowledge of wine and his high expectations of his service staff have never dimmed. Today, chef Cory Campbell is dishing up arguably the best menu in some time. Cory is supported by sommelier Andrea Martinisi, who makes suggestions from a covetable wine list, and a host of well-trained staff all committed to the Dearth dream. Cory’s lamb sweetbreads are as superb as his venison presented on the salt block. Scallops and horse mussels take shellfish to a new level and his kingfish with lemongrass seasoning is sublime. Dining in this stylish, long room with its well-spaced tables is a joy.

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MAINS: 6-course dégustation $195 per person, 8-course dégustation $235